Disclaimer - Please note I only recommend professionals undertake any work on vehicles. Spdkilz.com is not liable for any damage or harm that may come from the use of instructions given in the following how-to section(s).

 

. : List of Materials Needed : .
(1).  Hurst Shifter	(2).  Towel
(3).  Assortment of Flathead Screwdrivers	(4).  Torque Wrench
(5).  10mm Socket	(6).  T-15 Star Bit
(7).  3/8" Socket	(8).  Synthetic Grease
(9).  3/16" Hex Bit for Hurst Screws	(10).  Your Choice of A Shift Knob

 

(click on pictures for larger versions)

 

(1).  Here is a picture of a few things you will need.  After I took this picture I realized I left out the Synthetic Grease and Torque Wrench in the picture.  Also, I did not end up using the wrench, so ignore it.
(2).  The stock shifter/shift knob.  Oh how I loathed the long and sloppy throws on that thing.
(3).  First we will pry up the AH trip plate using a small flathead screwdriver.
(4).  Disconnect the three plugs underneath (I forgot to mark them in the picture, but if you look hard enough you should see them).
(5).  In this picture you can see two 10mm nuts.  Remove them and put them in a safe place so you don't lose them.
(6).  Now we move to the inside of the center console (lift up the cover).  You can see in the rear of it, two covers.  Use a small screw driver to pry them up.
(7).  Underneath the covers are two more 10mm nuts.  Remove these also.
(8).  Before you can pull the center console out you have to remove one more plug: the fuel door popper.  In the picture it is the plug with the orange and pink wires.  It is simple to get off, yet tricky at the same time (it is hard to lift it up and maneuver your hand underneath it because the wires are short).  Just take your time and it will pop out easily.
(9).  Shows the center console removed.  Some people seem to have problems getting it out, because they try to pull it straight up.  Instead, pull from behind (get your fingers under the plastic lip) and pull it toward the trunk while steadily lifting it upward.  That is a very easy way to remove the center console.
(10).  We move next to removing the stock shift knob.  Get a very small and thin flathead screwdriver, and wedge it in-between the plastic and leather part of the shift knob.  Then, carefully pry the plastic piece out (have a cloth underneath the screw driver so no damage will occur to the stock shift knobs leather, in case you want to re-use it at a later time).
(11).  Next we remove the "Demon Key".  I have heard more than a few people curse about this small piece of metal over on Corvetteforum.com.  I, however, don't know why.  If you take two relatively beefy flathead screwdrivers and wedge one on either side of the "Demon Key" and then slowly but forcefully lift up, the demon key should pop right out (it did for me on my first try).  Remember to use a cloth to cushion the knob.
(12).  This just shows the "Demon Key" out and chilling on the knob.
(13).  With the "Demon Key" out, we can now unscrew the shift knob.  After that is done, we must remove the boot.  Pull gently towards the shifter, then up.
(14).  Shows the boot removed.
(15).  The instrument panel must now be removed.  There are three T-15 screws that must be removed.  Lift up the ashtray door and you will discover two of them (remove the ashtray to reveal the second one).
(16).  The last screw is right next to the ignition switch.  In this picture you can see that we have to pop off one more small panel that is hiding the last screw.  Again, use a small flathead screwdriver and cloth to do so.
(17).  With the instrument panel removed, we can see (4) 10mm nuts holding on the rubber isolator.  Remove the 4 nuts, and then gently pry up on the isolator.
(18).  After the rubber isolator is removed, we can see there are four 3/8" sockets.  Remove the four sockets (you can throw the screws away if you are SURE you won't use the stock shifter again, however, I would recommend saving them incase you ever put the stock shifter back in).  Once the four screws are removed, pull the stock shifter up and out.
(19).  Here is a shot of the stock shifter (left, obviously) and the new Hurst shifter.  Quite a bit different, eh?
(20).  This is a shot where the shifter will go.  When I pulled my stock shifter out, there was a gooey substance holding it in (black).  I had to scrub the gasket surface quite a bit to get all of it off (the picture shows it partially cleaned...I finished cleaning it up after I took the shot and got a sharp tool to gently scrape the remaining gook off).
(21).  Get the stock shifter and remove the plastic brushing.  The easiest way to do this is to get a rag and to push the brushing as far as you can to one side until it pops off (Hopefully you understand what I'm talking about).
(22).  Next, put some Synthetic Grease on the Hurst shifter, and then on a flat surface, gently but forcefully push down until the plastic brushing snaps into place.  Be SURE it is all the way on.
(23).  Shows everything that came with the Hurst shifter.  The only thing I used in the photo was the gasket and the four screws.
(24).  Picture showing the new gasket on...(some say to use something to affix it to the surface, but I had no problems gently placing the shifter on top of it and lining up the four holes).
(25).  Obtain the four screws that come with the Hurst shifter.  Place the Hurst into place.  Be sure that the slot cut into the shifter is facing the back of the car (in case you wanted to use the stock knob...this slot is required for the "Demon Key").  When you are sure everything is lined up, begin tightening down the four screws.  Tighten to 8-10 ft.lb with your torque wrench.  MAKE SURE that you test the shifter to see if everything engages correctly.
(26).  Reverse the center ring of the isolator so that it extends upward as shown in the picture.  You must do this to give clearance to the larger Hurst shifter.  On a side note, I had to remove a plastic ring around the center ring of the isolator in order for me to reverse it.  I saved the ring in case it was needed in the future (though I doubt it).
(27).  That's it!  You are now done.  Begin putting the car back together.
(28).  Final Product (using the MGW Gripper Shift Knob)
Final Thoughts: After the install I took the car out for a brief spin.  Mind you, this was the first time I had driven the Z06 since my Spring Break (ending March 5th).  To say the least, the shifter is shorter, however, it is incredibly stiff compared to the stock.  2nd to 3rd is a lot easier for me, but surprisingly I was messing up my 1st to 2nd shift a bit (which I have NEVER done).  I guess I just think it is in gear then rev (no grinding).  I need to slam it into 2nd a bit faster.  Granted, I only drove for 10 miles...I need a lot of practice to get the feel for it.  I'll update this and let you know how I like the shifter after a few more miles. [Update] I took the car out a bit more and had no more mishaps.  I love this shifter! If I have missed anything in this how-to please let me know. Carleton

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Install a Hurst shifter in an afternoon.  Get RID of that sloppy old Stock Shifter!