Disclaimer - Please note I only recommend professionals undertake any work on vehicles. Spdkilz.com is not liable for any damage or harm that may come from the use of instructions given in the following how-to section(s).
 

 

. : List of Materials Needed : .
(1).  (2) Rhino Ramps	(2).  Strap Wrench to Remove Old Oil Filter
(3).  Low Profile Jack	(4).  (2) Jack Stands
(5).  (2) Lift Pads or Equivalent	(6).  15mm Box Wrench
(7).  (2) Bricks to Block The Front Wheels	(8).  Drain Pan That Holds 6.5+ Quarts of Fluid
(9).  Towels	(10).  Some 2 x 4 Wood
(11).  6.5 quarts of Mobil  1 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (or equivalent)	(12).  AC-Delco UPF44 Ultraguard Oil Filter (or equivalent)
(13).  Magnetic Drain Plug

 

(click on pictures for larger versions)

 

(1).  What oil should I use?  This question comes up often enough.  When it comes to servicing your Corvette, you must use oil that meets or exceeds General Motors standard GM4718M (5W-30) in order to maintain your new factory warranty. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this standard.  It is imperative to purchase oil that will meet this standard.  The only time you may use oil that doesn't meet the standard is to top off your system in an emergency.  You may (as I did) substitute the use of 5W-30 with 10W-30, assuming that it is going to be above 0 degrees F (-18 degrees C) and meets the above requirements.  I used Mobil 1 10W-30 when I changed my oil
(2).  When to change your oil:  After reading through numerous different explanations on when/how to change your oil, I have realized this is a topic that will never have one answer.  Some people still go by the "Change your oil every 3,000 miles" while others favor to change the oil when the DIC tells them to.  If you do go by the DIC, be sure to change the oil somewhere between the 25% and 0% oil life remaining indicator.  Now while GM used a pretty advanced algorithm for the DIC to determine how fast the oil life reading changes from 100% to 0%, the system does not detect dust.  Therefore if you drive on a dusty road take this into account and change the oil accordingly.  Again, it is personal choice that each individual makes on when to change their oil; nonetheless, one thing to keep in mind is to never let your oil go past 10,000 miles before changing it.
(3).  Now, with that out of the way we can start with the oil change.  Make sure the oil is partially warm - do not change the oil when it is cold.  A good temperature is in the low 100 degree Fahrenheit range.  Be careful not to overheat the oil, because when you may burn yourself.  This picture shows the 7 quarts of Mobile 1 10W-30, AC-Delco UPF44 Ultraguard Oil Filter and the magnetic drain plug.  The magnetic drain plug is not a must have, but it does offer a little bit extra protection by collecting any fragments/particles of metal that are floating around in the oil pan.
(4).  Go obtain your Rhino ramps and set them up under your front wheels.  Be sure you are on completely level ground.  Drive the Corvette up on the ramps as shown in the picture.  With this done, set the parking brake and set the transmission in Park (for an A4) or 1st gear (for an M6).  Place the bricks (or equivalent) directly behind the tires on the ramps as shown in the picture.  It is very important to do this.  Do not overlook this step; if it is not done the vehicle may roll backward when the rear is being jacked up.  Remember, setting the emergency brake and placing the transmission in gear won't help when the rear end is lifted off of the ground.
(5).  Find the proper rear jack point, which is the large crossmember behind the rear leafspring and in front of the rear anti-swaybar.  It has two large braces as shown in the picture.  Place the 2 x 4 (or equivalent) on top of your floorjack such that the weight is both centered on the jack plate and spans both aluminum ribs on the crossmember as shown, taking care to place the jack in the center of the crossmember.  Carefully jack the rear of the vehicle.  (You can see my friend Steve in the picture; thanks again for the assistance Steveo)
(6).  Place the jack stands underneath the rear crossmember as directed by the shop manual.  Carefully lower the rear of the vehicle onto the jack stands (people use lift pads sometimes so as not to damage the underneath of the car.  Lift pads range from rubber hockey pucks to actual lift pads that fit in the holes underneath your Corvette.  I made the mistake of forgetting to purchase lift pads this time around and I lowered the car onto the jack stands without anything.  Thankfully it did not harm the underside at all, and I have already ordered Lift Pads).  Make sure that the rear is at least an inch or two above the front to ensure a proper drain.
(7).  Place the drain pan below and to the front of the drain plug, which is located on the "bat wing" aluminum oil pan.  With the vehicle now suspended in the air, remove the oil filler cap and slightly lift up on the dipstick so that it is not seated fully.  This will relieve the pressure and many believe it helps the oil flow much faster.  Remove the drain plug using your 15mm box wrench and allow the oil to drain from the pan until it becomes a slow trickle or stops (approximately 10-15 minutes should be sufficient).  Replace the drain plug (Again, as stated, I chose to purchase a magnetic drain plug) and tighten to 18 lb-ft using a torque wrench.  This is not necessary, though.  I merely tightened the bolt until I was satisfied it was tight enough.  BE SURE NOT TO OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLT!  (on a side note...I really need to cut my hair!  California changes you: makes you want to just let it grow out long! haha)
(8).  Move the drain pan directly below the oil filter (the blue object in the above picture).  Slowly begin removing the oil filter.  Sometimes you can do this by hand.  This was not the case with me.  I had to use a strap wrench to loosen the filter.  When the oil starts flowing, allow it to drain until it becomes a trickle.  Completely remove the filter and wipe the mating surface clean of debris and oil.  When the oil has stopped flowing, replace the filter with a new one (UPF44 or equivalent).  Make sure to lightly oil the gasket on the new filter before installation.  When screwing on the filter, some choose to tighten it using 22 lb-ft with their torque wrench.  I however (along with many others) choose to hand tighten the filter to one full turn after contact.  I am yet to see any problems associated with this method.
(9).  Lower the rear of the Corvette by reversing the above steps.  Open the oil filler cap under the hood and put in 6 quarts of oil.  Wait a minimum of three (3) minutes for the new oil to fill the oil pan before starting the engine.  Replace the filler cap, and push the dipstick back into place, and start the car.  Let it run for a few minutes.  During this time check for leaks around the filter and drain plug.  Obviously, correct any problems you see now, before the front end is off the ramps.
(10).  Back the car off of the ramps, and then shut if off.  After waiting at least five (5) minutes, check the oil level.  It should be a little bit low, but that is normal.  Put in one half quart of oil, and then start the car again.  Let it run for a minute or two then shut it off.  Check the oil level; it should be at the top of the "Full" range on the dipstick.  Reset the "OIL LIFE" indicator on the DIC, clean up, and you're done!
(11).  How to Reset the "Oil Life" Indicator - After you change the oil on your Corvette, it is necessary to reset the oil life indicator so that you know when the next change is due.  Turn the ignition on, but make sure the engine is off.  Press the "Trip" button on the DIC so that it displays "OIL LIFE" percentage.  Press and hold the "Reset" button for two seconds.  "OIL LIFE REMAIN 100%" should appear on the display.

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