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(1).
Things You Need: |
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(2).
I mounted my Valentine One to the left of my mirror using the provided
suction cup mount. It is mounted just below the tint, and has a
clear view both from the front and back to insure optimum results. |
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(3).
Next, we will start the actual instillation process. Go to the
passenger side and remove the floor mat. |
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(4).
With the floor mat removed we see the toe panel. Remove this by
gently prying it off - remember, there are two pieces of plastic on the
bottom of the toe panel that help keep it in place; don't break these off. |
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(5).
This is the view of the body control module (which is the shiny box on
the left). What we are looking for here is a plug and harness that
GM already put in for us. You will find the plug and harness nestled
on top of the BCM box. It is attached by a clip but you can slide it
off (this part was a bit of pain, but be patient). |
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(6).
In this picture, we can see the plug and harness freed from it's clip.
Remove the harness by pushing down on the plug. The three wires on
the harness are as follows:
Black = Ground
Orange = Battery (always on)
Yellow = Ignition (only on when key is on) |
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(7).
Here is the wiring harness disconnected. You can see I did a few
things - I took off the original black tape that was holding the three
wires together. I then cut down the orange and black wire a bit to
be out of the way of the yellow wire. The yellow wire is the one we
are going to use - that way when the car is turned off your V1 turns off
with it (obviously on the same note when you turn your car on the V1 will
also turn on). If you look closely, you can see a blue connector on
the yellow wire. This is a wire crimp that comes with the V1 and is
used for easy installation. All you need to do is use your pliers
and crimp it gently until it "clicks" into place. Use the blue
connector to connect the red wire from the V1. You do not need
to use the connector, however, it does make things easier. You
can go ahead and do it the old fashioned way by stripping off some of the
wires insulation and soldering the yellow wire to the red wire from the
V1. Either way, after you have done all this be sure to wrap any
connections in electrical tape to avoid short circuits. |
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(8).
This view shows three things:
- The Direct Power Adapter (the black box bottom center)
- The Red power wire and Black Ground wire coming from the Direct Power
Adaptor.
- The wiring harness is plugged back in. |
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(9).
You can ground the V1 using the black wire from the wiring harness,
however, I found it easier to use the bolt to the far right of the fuse
box behind the side kick panel. Use a 15mm socket wrench (I think) to screw down the ground wire from the
Direct Power Adaptor. |
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(10).
With everything connected, make sure that all of your wires are secured
and everything is out of the way so that nothing will get pinched. |
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(11).
Our next task is to run the included telephone cord from your V1 down to
the Direct Power Adaptor (that way if there is any excess of wire you can
store it behind the toe panel). As for routing the power, you will
have to take off three panels if you want to do it correctly. The
door sill, A pillar, and a small connector for them. With that done,
we can begin routing the wire. Start where your V1 is mounted and
gently slip the wire under the headliner. Continue doing this until
you reach the passenger A pillar. Affix the wire in place with tape.
After you have ran the wire down the A pillar, run it to the Direct Power
Adaptor and plug it in. Again, be sure no wires will be pinched. |
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(12).
Once you have double checked all of your connections and turned the car
on to make sure everything works, you can begin putting the panels back
on. Get ready to have the best radar detector save you
from more tickets than you can count! (On a side note, some of these
steps may vary depending on the style of your C5) |